THE FORGOTTEN KITCHEN

I am returning to the 20th anniversary recipe booklet put out by Leruth’s Restaurant, that storied place in Gretna, Louisiana (636 Franklin Street). (You can find this pamphlet complete with a timeline of Leruth’s accomplishments at the SoFAB Research Center at Nunez Community College in Chalmette.) This was Warren Leruth’s chance to plan for the next 20 years. He was not about what had h...

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